Gucci Spring Summer 2023
As if by Magic

In a tribute to his two mothers – his mother and her twin sister, “two extraordinary women who made their twinship the ultimate seal of their existence” – Alessandro Michele presented his latest collection in a deeply personal fashion show that represented everything to him and something different to everyone.

The fashion show, marked by a finale that revealed a second runway and the unexpected revelation that in fact, 68 pairs of twins or doppelgängers had simultaneously modeled the looks of the Creative Director’s latest collection, spoke to his eternal fascination for the double. While the concept of twinship may evoke ideas of identicality or sameness, Alessandro Michele aimed to demonstrate the precise opposite: “It’s exactly the impossibility of the perfectly identical that nourishes the magic of twins… It’s the deception of similitude. The game of illusion of a cracked symmetry,” he said in his notes on the show. “As if by magic, clothes duplicate. They seem to lose their status of singularity.”
Looks seen first on individual models were remarkably different in a second viewing on a pair of seemingly identical models, forcing one to take a closer look. “Facing a double, we are forced to be more careful in catching and naming the differences, even the slightest.” And from this close observation, the details that come to the fore act both as echoes of collections past and traces of collections future.
A tailored suit instantly becomes a Gucci suit via cut-out garters on the pants, a waist cinched with a statement logo belt from the ‘90s, mix-and-match proportions, and Liberty print-lined lapels. A selection of looks paid homage to cultures whose elements add depth and beauty to his narrative. “I am extremely fascinated with Chinese culture, which comes from a place that seems so far away, but is also so connected with Europe. It influenced the culture of Europe and changed its perspective, and this is a reminder of the fact that we are more than one – we are many,” said the Creative Director.
Archival reprisals, a mainstay of Alessandro Michele’s collections, included an equestrian-inspired bag first presented in 1981, a crystal-covered take on a teddy bear accessory and what might be described literally and recalled nostalgically as a G string from the ‘90s, a furry creature named Gizmo from ‘80s cinema lore, and graphic elements from the anthology of FUORI! – an LGBTQ+ association and magazine from the ‘70s and ‘80s that represented, and still represents today, the ever-important battle for freedom. For the sharp-eyed observer and/or chemistry enthusiast, on the back of a tweed jacket was the formula for chlorophyllin photosynthesis – a process without which we would not exist. The theme of nature flows through the collection in the form of references to the animal kingdom – both in the vibrant prints found on boots, tights, gloves, and fully sequined gowns, as well as in the range of accessories from crystal-curtained eyewear to face-embellishing jewelry. These adornments speak to that ever-natural instinct to present an other version of ourselves, one that desires to catch the eye. In his notes, Alessandro Michele states that twinship imposes a decentralization; a leaning towards the other. “It’s a topos that transcends biology, showing us the sense of co-belonging and sisterhood that should guide our trip through this planet.”